Saturday 30 January 2010

On a quiet day, Photos

Yes, it has been a quiet couple of days, spent mostly studying and reflecting, with a wee bit of planning tucked in.

I did wander into the main square this afternoon, to get water and try and access some photos off my camera. I forgot to pack my uploading cord. I also bought a small sized locally made chocolate bar... with quinoa no less. Sat in the main square in the sunshine and enjoyed every bite.

I stayed only long enough to witness a mother smacking her baby, and I had to leave. Sigh.

Walked up my street towards a beautiful rainbow, and the ominously dark clouds coming in over the mountains. I passed several children practicing their water balloon aim in preparation for Festival. Don't know if you remember from my blog last year, but Festival involves lots of water being tossed. I expect I will get wet.

I also expect I will be scratching for the next few weeks, because the mosquitoes seem to love my feet. Day and night. Little buggers.

Also up in the bothersome category are the teensy weensy ants that crawl over everything searching for food. I am due a stint in some form of repentance for the trail of dead little ants I have left behind me.

I have tried a couple of local peruvian beverages. Inka cola tastes like a cherry soda, is bright yellow and has a slightly banana taste to it. Chicha is most often an alcoholic drink, corn based, made and enjoyed in many Andean areas. True Chicha involves a process of masticating corn to add to the brew. I tried the non alcoholic purple Chicha, which was delicious... although served over ice cubes I knew better than to have. Hence a couple of quiet days. :(

These quiet days spent at or near the hostal have given me a chance to watch the interaction of the family that own and operate it. There is extended family in town (ie Charly) and they are also staying on the premises. I happened upon the lot of them last night having dinner... Table for 30 or so. Made me pine for the days when my dining room table with set for 20 or so.

Though I can´t say I miss the kitchen that had to be cleaned after the lot left.

Anyhow I have hopefully posted a link to some photos you can enjoy. I think if you click on the slide show it will take you to the album. Hope it works.




Cheers.

Friday 29 January 2010

Yurimaguas

Woke up this morning and thought "maybe I´ll head over the mountains to the Amazon Basin".

What I should have thought was "maybe today I will view beautiful mountains, barf my guts out on a bus, and spend a crappy two hours on a riverboat seeing nothing but farms and the city".

Did I give too much away? Want the details?

Went with Ezra to the bus station, purchased tickets etc., and took our places on the bus. I got the window seat. (insignificant detail) I, and everyone else on the bus, was handed a plastic bag. "Why" I asked Ezra? He opened his bag and made a barfy face, to which I responded, "that´s silly". Silly gringa.

We headed out east, towards the "Hot Mountains", the last barrier to the Amazon Basin proper, and its first city, Yurimaguas. The route took it´s twists and turns, ups and downs. Mostly ups, then mostly downs. The vegetation was wild, green and immense. The shear drops into the river valley below were spectacular. The views seemed to get more magnificent the further we headed inland. As did the frequency and sharpness of the turns. Hairpin mostly. Lonely planet lists this as one of the most beautiful drives in Peru. Believe it.

Now perhaps it was trying to practice writing out spanish verb conjugations, my choice of breakfast, or just travelling in a bus, but the queezies set in. No problem, I will just put my breathing techniques to use and use pressure point therapy. Worked fairly well over most of the mountains.

Then I glanced back and saw people barfing. Well that did it for me. Breakfast was left in a garbage pail outside the rest stop.

We continued on for another hour over mostly flat terrain, until, blessedly, the bus pulled into the station. I pushed my way through a hordes of moto-taxi drivers looking for business and headed into the ladies room. No seat or TP. (another insignificant detail)

When I emerged there was this kind hearted peruvian woman waiting, just to make sure I was ok. I got a hug & cheek buss. That was sweet.

Then came our search for a riverboat ride. Found what seemed like a reputable company and I laid down more than a bit of coin for a couple of hours of sightseeing. Should have gotten very specific. What followed was a nice float on a big river. Not yet the Amazon, but pink. What we didn´t see was more than a handful of birds, water lettuce, farms and cityscape. Or should I say uglyscape. There was simply no comparison to last years Amazon experience. With the exception of the odd tree left standing, the Jungle had been razed for as far as the eye could see. There was no guide provided, just a boat driver sitting in the back taking us from one side of the river to the other. I called it quits after 90 minutes and back we went to shore.

Next stop was the street market, which was closed. Got a couple of photos of the aftermath of a street market. It´s not pretty.

Home James. We found a "car-ra" to make the return trip, as for reasons detailed above I did not wish to take a bus. While we waited for passengers to fill up the vehicle I passed some time giving the food in my backpack to 2 starving dogs, in the hopes that they and their puppies might make it for another day. Physically, the trip was far more enjoyable in a car, and perhaps more importantly, nothing in my stomach.

With that settled tummy my attention was able to turn to the many, many fires burning all around the valley. It took more than an hour to get to the first mountains, yet. save small stands between farms and in steep crevices, every bit of rainforest had been felled to farmland. It boggles the mind. I wonder how many species were wiped out. We´ll never know. The road over the mountains was paved less than 5 years ago. Build a road and man will follow. Farms dotting the mountainside for miles upland.

But what a road. A real beauty, and a symbol of Peru´s determination. This road is carved out of the sheer bedrock and breathtakingly rugged ascents. I am no road engineer, but it looked good water control and culverts, well marked and signed, fairly significant looking barriers. Not much you can do about the rockslides in rainy season, and there was evidence of those. Nothing major, although it would not surprise me if it happened.

Sights seen on the drive home:

A gated style pickup truck filled with standing people in the box, some holding flats of eggs (hundreds) on top if the cab.

People walking along the road side carrying buckets of water to their homesteads. (yes Linda, there really are people who live without running water)

Signs about speckled bears, but alas, no sightings.

Large transport truck broken down on lane just past a hair-pin turn. Accident waiting to happen.

Farm truck laden with goods, people crammed in at the back, and one intrepid (stupid?) man who strapped himself to the outside of the rails. Oh, and some kind of liquid in containers strapped all down the sides. Not even an inch of space left spare.

Policia Ecologica checkpoint, looking for illegal poaching of exotic birds, animals and woods.

Who knew chickens come in so many colours?

Fields and fields of palms grown for palm oil.

Cool looking cows, even though they don´t belong in the jungle.

Trees, trees, tRees, trEes, trEEs, TREES. Twisty, knobly, tall, short... you name it, Ferns, same thing only heights and widths. Palms, same thing.

So does the road to Yurumaguas rate the trip? Only if you go to the rest stop and then turn around and go back over the mountains. Unless you are taking the slow boat to Iquitos. Otherwise do yourself a favor and just fly to Iquitos for the real thing.

A la mañana.

P.S.

Marion, nice hearing from you! Hope all is well.
:)

Thursday 28 January 2010

A fine young gentleman

So today it rained. No, that's not right. It poured. Full force tropical deluge. It was fabulous. I enjoyed it from my hammock swinging gently under the thatched roof of the common area of my hostel.

Ah, heaven.

Today has been a laid-back kind of day. Was not supposed to be. I was booked for some river rafting in the afternoon but torrential rains + already rainy season swollen river = not safe for rafting, so it was siesta time instead. This came after an exciting morning of taking my clothes to the cleaners, buying a bottle of water and breaking my teeth over more spanish practice.

Thoughts and things I missed in my writings yesterday...

Dinner plate sized spider perched on the rock I was to use as stepping stone across river. Um, don't think so. Upriver detour, which was silly considering there was probably lots of said spiders on most of the rocks I crossed, however I SAW that one.

Ubber tasty new fruit called Pepino. Tasted like a cross between an apple & pear, texture like a melon and so juicy it takes a combination of eating & drinking to finish it off. YUM

Cute little cricket creature that after launching, sprouts wings and flys to its' next perch. Green & bright yellow. Saltinas / saltinado??? Forgot to write the name in my notes.

An abundance of butterflys in a rainbow of colours and sizes. I love butterflys.

Frog sitings: zero
Monkey sitings: zero
Naked people bathing in the river: a dozen or so
Intensity of sun: super high.
Touch of sunstroke: yes
Resulting headache: yes

In spite of my rather fried mental state on the way home yesterday, it really struck me that so much of the land had been deforested. I need look no further for the battle between conservation and growth. On one side of the valley there is rainforest as far as the eye can see. On the other there are farms, cleared land waiting for planting, and many areas burning.

As I pondered the prevalence of this in the rain forests across South America, I wonder how this gets solved. How to preserve what is basically the "earths´s lungs" and yet allow people here to survive? Population control? Less family farms and more intense food production? And does this lovely land need a Gringo solution? I have no idea how this issue is viewed locally, if at all.

Certainly with my spanish I will not be able to ask the questions, yet alone understand the answers.

What I can tell you is that the local farms are picturesque, for all their appearance of "poverty". Fruit trees dotting the pastures where a cow or two graze. Simple dwellings, wash hanging in the breeze while chickens peck the grounds and dogs laze in the sun. Fields of rice. Fields of Corn.

Rural heaven, slashed out of the Jungle hillside.

But enough about yesterday, allow me to tell you about the wonderful young gentleman that broke bread with me this evening.

His name is Charly and he is 11 years old. He is visiting Tarapoto with his family from a town named Pucallpa, which is also a jungle town. I had a great time working with him to understand one another. Who knew that talking to this boy would be such a treat. He was so patient, and you could see his mind working as he tried to find different ways to impart information to me until, eureka!, the light bulb goes on and I GET it!

We covered ages, family numbers & genders, house and garden details, schooling, traveling, the news about the Cusco landslides, food preferences... We have agreed to exchange email info to continue our conversations.

What a treat. Truly a fine young gentleman. Someone is raising him well.

Adios, I'm off to shower & sleep well for whatever tomorrow brings.

:)

I am sooo ending this day on a high note.

Wednesday 27 January 2010

Wow, what a ride.

Today I got to do some good hiking. We went to a small by Combi (taxi waits until it is full, and then off we go) to get to the trailhead for the Huacamailla Waterfalls. The trail winds past a series of small farms before coming to the first of 3 river crossings. Wadings. Get wetting. Yay.

As the trail continues the flora changes to more of what I would expect for tropical rain forest. Green, green, green. Fresh, fresh, fresh. Up we went following the river, skirting the water then heading inland, then back to the river. The temperature of the water was getting colder as we got closer to the falls. It took nearly 2 hours to reach the falls, about 30 minutes to eat lunch (cakes and fruit purchased in the market), then another couple of hours for the return trip. I got back to the dusty little town a very happer camper, so to speak.

Waiting in the main plaza for the return combi was what it was, but the kicker was the combi ride back to Tarapoto. 10 people crammed into a small station wagon. No choice, as we were told it was the last transport back for the day. Visions of mass auto collision fatalities ran rampant through my head as I meekly aquiessed.

Squish.

Now I have not yet described the ride between Tarapoto and San Martin. Mostly paved roads for the first few kilometers, then a quick turn off the road and we have gone back a few centuries. A rough, pitted road, the worst I have encountered yet.. there is no comparison to anything at home. All this and no 4 wheel drive. What a ride. Especially sardine style.

Ezra and I took turns playing teacher throughout the day, and my poor confused brain managed to spit out a correct word or two. Very frustrating to be articulate in one language but not be able to verbalize what is around me. The ride back was accomplished in silence, and I am sure you can figure out why.

As I write this I am sitting in a small internet cafe situated at what must surely be one of the noisiest intersections in Tarapoto. My brain is going to explode if I don´t get away from the noise.

So Buenos Noches Amigos,

L.

Tuesday 26 January 2010

The mosquitoes have found me!

I will have you know that my Guide / spanish teachers' name is Ezra. See I remembered. We spent about an hour reviewing some basic vocabulary this morning before heading out on our adventures today.

This began at a chocolate making factory, where I was kindly offered a short tour. The factory was in preparation for the beginning of its production season, which begins in February and runs through November. There were several pieces of equipment being cleaned, and everything looked well cared for. Then took a small gander at their gardens and headed back into town. Mosquitoes are out today, the air is still and we are not "in town".

Wandered through "market 1" and was introduced to Ezras' family, who have a stall there. Then headed off by taxi to the nearby Ahuashiyacu Waterfall. It was pretty, but as far as "trecking goes", think walk in the park, with stairs. 10 minutes up, photos & wet feet. and 10 minutes down. Sightings: birds of all sorts, really cool little yellow frogs, salamandars & mosquitoes.

Ezra and I parted for lunch, (mine was a tofu something, and really not very good), and Cindy (see I remember her name now too) introduced me to another guest who was looking to do some sightseeing. When Ezra returned the three of us sandwiched in to the back of a mototaxi for one really hair raising ride. Try to picture this mototaxi, vrooming its way along snaky, pitted, off kilter, rocky dirt roads. This went on for about 20 minutes, further and further into the woods until we reached a wildlife sanctuary of sorts. Took a mosquito filled, but interesting tour through jungle terrain to view various rescued animals in too small cages. They also had butterflys they raised for both export and release, a couple of boa constrictors and a collection of rain forest frogs, including several poison species. A fairly sad little place. Good thing Vanessa was along, because there is a lot lost in Ezras translations... although he is trying hard.

Went roaring back up what the driver obviously thought was a racetrack, and back to the hotel.

After showering off the road dirt, my new companion and I headed out for a bite to eat before she heads back home to Lima. Yes Lima. I now officially have a contact in the city. Yay.

All in all a busy and fun mosquito filled day.

Spanish notwithstanding.

A la mañana.

Monday 25 January 2010

What a GREAT day I have had

Woke up bright and early and started my day off with nice conversation with an older gent, bilingual, who is also staying at the Hotel. Had a decent breakfast, which was included in the price of my stay.

Spent a bit of time scoping out some of the other cheaper hostals in town, and found a winner. La Patarshea has some english speaking staff, is way cheaper, has a lovely courtyard with hammocks & chairs for lazing about in.

Took a bit of time to cozy into said room, as I will be here at least a week. The price for this lovely little gem? About $15. per night.

Tarapoto, population 125,000 and known as "the city of palms" sits in a rich and lush valley, one low mountain away from the amazon basin proper. Agricultural exports include rice, bananas, avocados, cacao and coffee.

After a generous invitation by one of the english speaking staff, (I will no doubt be able to remember her name at some point in the next couple of days... why do I have sooo much trouble remembering names???) I headed off with a group of locals to a small nearby town, Lamas. Joining us was (Oh hell, I'll just call him Eddy until I get it right) a student that has agreed to spend a few days with me trying to knock some spanish into my head. While my hostess and her compadres were giving a class in tourism, culinary presentation to be exact, Eddy and I explored the town.

Lamas is located about 20 kms NE of Tarapoto, has a population of about 16,000 and is known as "the city of 3 floors", or "the city of 3 steps", depending on your translator. The lower area is populated by local indigenous Andean Quechua families who live life true to their Quechua heritage. The thick, okra coloured, thatched roof, "tapial" walls fell (made of stamped down mud) homes have solid wooden doors and no windows. The people believe that windows allow evil spirits to come into the house. Many of these homes have have large cracks in the walls caused by an 7.5 earthquake that shook the town in 2005.

The middle area consists of Quechua, but those not living so strictly according to their past. Here the home are brick / stucco and have windows. The some of the streets are paved with sidewalks and porches. Many of the buildings are new construction post earthquake.

The upper "step" is predominately Mestizo, descendants of the original mixed marriages between the Andean Quechua and their spanish conquerors. This area of town is much closer in feel and custom to that of other Latin-Peruvian towns. Here there is evidence of the push towards tourism, with hostals and restaurants.

We spend an easy couple of hours wandering up and down the streets. There is a slow and very friendly pace to this town. Lots of kids. Lots of dogs. I expressed interest in trying BBQ banana, and was promptly given one. Ditto the leaf wrapped, steamed plantain. All payment refused.

And the flowers... Leona, you would have thought you'd died and gone to heaven. A prolific rainbow of colour, pouring out from every nook and cranny. Some I recognized (at least 4 different colours of hibiscus) and some I had never seen before. As on my last trip here, growing everywhere in abundance (and to great size) were just about every tropical plant we nurse along in our homes.

We ended our wanderings by taking a mototaxi (little 3 wheeled wonders built around a motorcycle body) to a local ecco reserve / conservation centre. This great place showcases the flora that is being reforested in the area thanks to work done in conjunction with one of the American Universities... (or so I understand from Eddy´s try at translation). Here I learn more about the local organic coffee and cacau that is being raised and harvested through a local co-operative. Both have won awards. Indeed, the again FREE chocolate and coffee were some of the best I have ever tasted. Must find more detailed info about this.

There were murals drawn on the walls depicting the belief in the spirits of the various trees and vines, as envisioned during ayahuasca (a powerfully psychedelic South American brew) sessions. Wandering around the centre I came across many plants that have butterfly eggs attached under their leaves. Kinda cool looking things.

Got my first taste of driving over pitted, rainy season dirt roads. Brings to mind all the warnings I have read about 4-6 hour sections of road like this in the area I am thinking of visiting. Am wondering if my back would survive such an experience?? Are their enough pain meds in the world?

Interesting factoids:

Price of gas is the equivalent of $3.50 a gallon. Leaded of course.

Cellphones abound.

There is a new "Techno Andean" music. Very difficult to describe.

Saw my first Peruvian garbage truck picking up streetside trash this am. I wonder where it goes? Hopefully not straight into the river. Will have to enquire.

There is a new Nature reserve in the mountains abutting the town, which incidentally is where the cities water source comes from... I´m thinking this is probably a good thing.

The map of peru I bought through the SAEC was printed in 2000. Hmmm, probably been some changes to the roads since then.

Lonely Planet guide to Peru was printed in 2007. I KNOW there have been changes since then, because I keep coming face to face with the incorrect info. :{

Now that I have once again talked your eyes out... (and thanks to the incredible cup of coffee I drank at 7 pm) I think I will take another stroll around town. Really don´t want to call an end to this GREAT day I have had.

Mañana.

Sunday 24 January 2010

Long, winding, long winded thoughts

I once again chickened out and made reservations with a hostal that includes airport pick up. Slightly more expensive, so I will relocate after I have checked out the cheaper options.

Today was airport day, and after finally figuring out how to cram my stuff into the backpack off I went. We took the sea expressway, with impressive views of the bluffs for which Lima is famous. High and filled with layers of different strata matter... but mostly sand and stone. Think clean evolution desecrated by evidence of man, because at the top of each rise there was a layer of garbage. At the base of these beauties some wise soul had built 8-10 ft chain link fences. Like that is going to hold that "landslide in waiting" off the road.

Riding a through poorer area of Lima, but not slum like. Lots of broken windows. I am thinking that those with jobs & money fix their window, and those without don´t. Lots of unemployed folk here if my theory happens to be true.

I smell fish.

Driving for an hour and we gain the airport express roads, which are lined with tidy, nice looking buildings. Traffic was much lighter... it´s sunday and in this predominately catholic country most things are closed.

After an easy check in process, where Star Peru Airlines gets a B+, for friendly service, but only one check in agent was at the counter. However I was early and maybe they put on more staff later. I went upstairs and wandered the shops.

Starbucks?? didn´t have any soy milk, so I skipped the coffee.

A very nice lady gave me her long distance phone card with time still available on it, so I made a call to deal with something that has come up at home. Always a mom. When the friendly clerk at the phone centre asked me where I was going I told him Tarapoto and he just grimaced and said ¨hot¨. I shrugged and smiled.

Airport security was on the ball today, with frequent follow up bag checks for items that shouldn´t be there. Nice big container of confiscated items. After security I went to buy replacement water that I had to dump out before security screening. This morning I paid 30 cents, at the airport I paid $1.90. They wanted $3 for a snickers bar. Shouldn´t there be a rule that water can´t be price gouged after airport security screenings.

The sunburn I got yesterday on the city tour is uncomfortable. (cloudy day in the tropics still = sunburn, but I forgot)

I am sitting in my chair in the waiting room repeating the following mantra: "Not Lost Luggage. Unexpectedly Easy." Worked last time, and is working so far this time too. I think appreciatively of Christine, who blessed me with those words last year.

A woman was wheeled into the room, and she looked so much like my Mother-in-law it had all kinds of memories and feelings bubbling up. I loved her very much, and she me. I treasured her. Memories can be comforting.

It should be obvious by now that I am finding that not being able to communicate gives me plenty of time to observe, ponder and remember.

We had to bus it to the planes stairs, which is pretty typical in many large airports around the world. The plane was parked so close to us though we could have walked back and forth many times while waiting for the bus to fill and to drive around the corner. Once seated in the plane, it sure would have been nice to be able to talk to the kids in the seat next to me, they were really cute. Maybe my spanish lessans can happen while in Tarapoto. We´ll see.

Now I will interrupt my travelog with some thoughts on the Faces of Lima.

It is easy to see the history of the country of Peru in the faces of the people in Lima. Asian, African, Latin, Native Andean and Native Amazonian. There are faces that reflect a blending of these cultures, although not as much as we are used to seeing in our big cities. You can also see economic class in the details... teeth, clothes, skin and (my interpretation) the expressions and demeanor. Tip of the head, stoop of the shoulders etc.

Life is cheap here, a 1 sole tip brings considerable delight and appreciation... that's about 35 cents Canadian.

The latin / spanish population take their grooming seriously. The women are very well put together (high heeled mules and tight pants & dresses abound), but it is the men that really shine. OMG. Period. Full Stop. Not that there is a lack of grooming all around, because that is not the case. I sure feel like a fish out of water walking around in my travel cargo pants and loose shirts.

Can´t say I have seen any balding Andean men, lots of full heads of hair... maybe they just don´t get old enough, because come to think of it I haven´t seen any old Andean men. Their average life expectancy is 58, which is a depressing thought, although a reflection of their economic situation.

Back to my travels...

We take off and circle over the Pacific, passing above fleets of fishing boats huddled together , and not far off dozens of freighters, some full, some empty... a kaleidoscope (sp?) of colours. As we ascend they start to look like someone went crazy with a stapler on a piece of blue paper... Water looks like pebbled leather. Seeing a quiet Pacific Ocean is a novel experience.

Right turn and we head inland, and I revisit the views of great seas of beige sand blown up against black mountains, for miles and miles. We head into many, many layers of clouds. Only here have I witnessed this, the last time I was descending into the Amazon Basin. There are glimpses of the Cordillera Negra (black mountains) and an occasional green valley dotted with villages and a craggy looking road. Up into another layer of cloud which obscures the Cordillera Blanca (white mountains).

It is not long until I start to see the billowing blossoms of thunderclouds in the distance, over the Tropics. I look down and then there they are, the headwaters of the Amazon, rivers snaking off the mountains and through vegetation growing ever more green. I see a road linking small communities, and vow to find this area on a map. I think it is the road to Tingo Maria, the centre of the Cocoa growing areas.

Our descent begins over tropical hills. The area seems heavily deforested and doesn´t appear to be farmed, although it is hard to tell from such a high altitude.

I see a mountain range I want to traverse. Hills rising from the low clouds. True farmland begins. Wish I could get a picture of the squiggles of the rivers in the valley, like someone sprayed silly string from west to east..

Water, water, everywhere now. The rivers have taken on the pink colouring for which the Amazon River is famous.

Wish I could Paint. Wish I could come back for a flyover with a camera.

Sigh.

I had a friendly airport p/u... no english at the Hostal, which has basic digs and a very nice courtyard.

Took a warm evening stroll. Lots of lots of babies. Streets are fairly quiet, but it´s Sunday and most stores are closed. What can I say? The air is glorious, the climate perfect, (think Courteny on a hot, hot summers´evening) here in this lovely valley between the mountains.

Had enough for today? Ya, me too.

L.

PS. Note to Bert, should he be checking in:
You should get a gander at the ladies manning the checkouts at the supermarket in Lima. Same height, figures, make-up and hair... long and nicely tied up with yellow scrunchies, which match yellow buttoned down shirts over matching pants. Couldn-t get a good gander at their shoes though. Could hardly tell them apart.
Made me think of you :)

Saturday 23 January 2010

Tarapoto here I come

I knew this morning languishing in bed that I had to give myself a good, quick kick in the ass and get on transport out of this city.

So I laid out all my gear on the bed, separated tropics vs. alpine trekking and looking at them I chose tropics.  Coin toss confirmed it.  This had me packing up my alpine gear and clothes and schlepping them to the baggage holding centre at the South American Explorers Club for drop off.  Then I headed to Star Peru and (before I could talk myself out of it) booked a flight to Tarapoto, which is essentially a town that sits in the area between the Amazon Basin and the tropical side of the andes mountains. This despite reading up on the area and acknowledging that what I would like to do is most likely impossible given my 3 or so word spanish vocabulary.

Never let it be said that I always play it safe. 

I gave directions to a lost gringa today.  What a hoot, considering how turned around I get myself.  Really, it is a good thing I have a compass so I will know which way west is when I head over the mountains.

Went to the main park in Miraflores today and wandered around looking at all the crafty goods people are selling in little stands. There were also some colourful paintings (some good, some awful, IMHO) and several tourist police officers scooting around on those two wheeled wonder thingys... starts with an S and was supposed to be the biggest thing since sliced bread, but obviously isn´t because this is the first I have seen since the big launch years ago. Segway? Someone put my out of my misery here and let me know what they are called.  Or I will remember at 3am.  Whatever.

I digress.

I then went for an afternoon city tour, just in case I wasn't turned around enough in my two little suburbs.  I joined a crowd of folks sitting atop a double decker sightseeing tram and went cruising the noisy, busy streets of downtown Lima.  Took requisite photos.  Also took photos of different kinds of trees gasping an existence through the concrete sidewalks on the main streets.  Don´t know why, the photos I mean, seemed an interesting idea at the time.

Sat behind blonde bombshell and got to watch all the attention she got. Yes that is jealousy talking.  Although I did seem to catch the eye of a couple of cute kids and we waved.  Kids and dogs, but that is a whole different discussion in itself.

Anyhow, the highlights of Historical Lima:  Narrow streets, shuttered balconies, pretty ironwork, colonial stonework, quaint plazas of green, stray dogs (which amazed me, I figured anything with four legs would be flattened in no time by the out of control drivers here) and lots of electrical lines. (line of sight etc.)

Interesting factoids...

Lima has a population of 9.5 million (crowded)

It also has the oldest university of the Americas: The National University of San Marcos, which according to wikipedia was originally named as "Royal and Pontifical University of the City of the Kings of Lima" and was founded on May 12 1551. (that´s copywrite infringement and/or plagiarism I think, BYW) I await the law suit.

By far one of the most ghoulish things I have seen was the catacombs at San Francisco monastery.  Piles of bones, some artfully arranged with skulls in circular patterns.
The church that sits above the catacombs was open, and was lovely. Lots of gold and silver work, and intricate wood carvings, frescoes and figures. The inner courtyard of the monastery was covered in hand painted tiles that were beautiful, and in quite remarkable shape considering their age and exposure.

The main square outside the church was busy, lots of kids chasing pigeons, bird poop and of course locals wearing cultural / native dress wandering around looking for cash for photo ops.

Hailed a cab back all by myself.  Face your fear and all that.

Went to the supermarket to pick up sticky buns for dinner.

Now I must go to the hostal and pack because tomorrow Tarapoto here I come!

PS to Amy ... Found the motherload! a whole network of little alleyways with stores all dedicated to shoes! Fantastic shoes, beautiful shoes, high heeled wonders. You would so love to join me there.

Friday 22 January 2010

Circles in Lima


So I spent 2 days wandering in circles in Miraflores, and have since moved on to Barranco and have now spent 2 days wandering in circles here.

Barranco is another Lima subdivision, slightly smaller but alas, no quieter than my previous digs. Actually I lasted about 2 hours at the first hostal I tried here.  I do not exaggerate when I say it would have been no louder sleeping on the sidewalk, which is basically what they offered. On possibly the busiest street here the gate opened and I was shown to what was essentially a beach hut stuck to the back of the gate. Hmmm.... Lonely Planet listed it as "a peaceful family environment, good to spend a few days resting and relaxing".  Sure.  Grain of salt and all that.

I high-tailed it out of there and found a hostal that had a clean room facing away from the street. Ahhh.  Now I can rest.

So the buses are running again, yet I find that I am no longer in a Yoga frame of mind.  I will take another couple of days to ponder my next steps.  Might take in a museum or two while I do.  I have heard reports that some of the roads to the smaller places I want to visit in the north are impassable right now, but there is always the option of heading to the highlands again.  There are a few spectacular places to trek in the Cordillera Blanca.

Will think twice about the altitude though.

There are always spanish classes, and I could volunteer in a small community teaching english too.  So many choices, and yet here I sit, making circles in the Lima suburbs.

Meanwhile I have been to the Canadian Consulate and can report that they have excellent security screening to get in the front door, but THAT IS AS FAR AS YOU CAN GO. PERIOD. FULL STOP.  Wait, they did let me use the potty.  So there you go, I made peepee back on canadian soil yesterday!  Then they basically (and politely) threw me out.  Smiled while they did it too.

I also went the the "indian market", which is pretty much a myriad of small cubicles filled with smaltzy, touristy, mass market trinkets.  I was looking for a back and white alpaca shawl, special order for my mom, however I didn´t find anything that suits.  Will continue the quest tomorrow and try to get it off in the mail before I leave here.

You know, basically when I decide to stop circling and CHOOSE already!

And for those of you worried souls out there, mind is clear again and pain level is good. Another lesson in the value of pacing.

I am off to pick up my laundry and complete my circle back to my sleeping digs.

Wednesday 20 January 2010

Two words... Bus strike.

So here I sit, stuck, not going anywhere because there is a country wide bus strike and I can´t get to the yoga centre I had planned on visiting.

Day two and I can´t say Lima has grown on me.   Still noisy, dirty and humid.   I hit several "tourist attractions" today, including the famed Parc d´amour on the cliffs in Miraflores.   Watched some very brave people paragliding off said cliffs, but alas twas too pricey for me (or that´s the excuse I will use). Took requisite touristy photos.

Looked for and finally found the Canadian Embassy.  Closed. Of course.  Better luck tomorrow.

I checked out a couple of hostels to move into until said strike is over, or until I change my mind and fly away to a different frontier.   Mountains, cloud forest, jungle.... just about anything but this "last place on my list of things to do" city, Lima.
                        
Think Toronto on it´s worst traffic jammed, grimy, smoggy, hot summer days, then add in certifiable drivers and triple the volume. Then add in some horns, actually lots of horns.

As my mom would say, "Oh well".

Think I´ll start checking the airlines.

Belly full of delicious vegetarian fare, and I have another quiet evening planned.


Tuesday 19 January 2010

Take-offs and Landings

Here I sit in Lima, sweltering actually, and reflect on the fun of travel. Air travel to be specific.

Since last Tuesday I have snoozed my way through 5 plane rides. Quite a selection too, from small to Jumbo. Common link? I was relaxed throughout.

Now those of you who haven´t known me for long will shrug and think "whats the big deal?" So let me tell you a wee bit about my flying history. The first flight I remember I was 12 or so, one of the unacompanied minor type deals. Now, you have to know that I was a "severely attached" kid. This business of flying sans mom made quite an impression.

So for the next, oh, twenty years or so I would happily drug myself in order to get on a plane. I refused to let the fear have the upper hand and keep me earthbound, but it was close pretty much every time.

And then one day, somewhere over the Swiss Alps my plane hit an "air pocket".  What a silly name for such a terrifying experience.  The plane dropped like a stone.  Stomach heaving, people screaming straight down.  Not nosedive, just think of the amusement park rides where people are dropped straight down on seats. Only, guess what?  There was no "safety stop" promised.   Then, just as suddenly the plane caught whatever air current it needed and we started to climb, and the captains' voice comes over the speakers and says "well that was a bit unexpected, but don´t worry, these planes can handle just about anything"!

Fast forward to travels now, and see me snooze through landings, takeoffs and turbulance.  I actually find them soothing.   During my bumpy flight from Vancouver to Toronto yesterday I heard myself repeating the captains words to a frightened passenger, and I realized just how far behind I have left the paralyzing fear of yesteryear.

Yay me!

Anyhoo, 12 hours of flight time plus check-ins, layovers, customs and hotel transfers equals a VERY long day.  Put that on top of the events prior to me leaving, visits in Kelowna and Whiterock and I am at an energy low.  Experiencing some "sideways" medication side effects, and have decided to stay over an extra day here in Lima to catch up.

Lima.  Busy, frantic main streets, quaint side streets, evidence of wealth, dirty air, heavy humidity, and a very nice vegetarian restaurant not too far from the hotel.  Which is nice, has hot water, beautiful wood floors and nice sitting areas.  I´ll give it an "ok" rating for clean.  That translates in to good enough to shower and actually sleep in the bed.

So now that I have let y'all know I am still alive I am going to head back to that bed and sleep. Tomorrow I will explore.


Saturday 16 January 2010

Lunch with an old friend

So a little bit of visiting before heading to Lima. Spent time with Mom while staying with my sister Leanne, and had a great visit with a childhood friend, Colleen. Four hours flew bye, and much reminiscing was done.

Today I am in Whiterock with Martha, and am spending a quiet day. Tonight will be a romance movie night and an early bedtime. I have a five am check in for Lima in the morning.

Low key.



Monday 11 January 2010

Princess Victoria is gone...


Having blessed my life for more than a decade, Princess Victoria (aka Vicky) went from my arms to Puppy Heaven this morning.

Not quite the way I had expected my last day here to be, but I am thankful it happened while I was still here and could be with her at the end.

As you can imagine, I am hurting and expect getting packed will be a challenge.  Life is surely a wild ride.  So much fun on Saturday, and so much heartbreak today.

Carpe Diem.

Party Hearty

Sooo, on the eve of my departure from work for another great adventure, my boss Bert saw fit to throw me a party! And a great party it was too.

Well, ok, it was really the staff year end party... but fitting none the less. Got to see everyone in their non-CT duds, and wow, there were some pretty fancy duds at that.  I didn't recognize Teresa, she looked so fine, and Allison just plain looked regal.  We all clean up pretty well, no?

Some of the highlights of the night:

Kayla's camera shenanigans
Jamie's elegant head ware
Seeing a relaxed Eric
Finding a few guys that like to dance
Watching Keith cut quite a rug
Doing "the bump" with Eli
Admiring Don's dancing finesse
Really good food
Sharing chocolate with Deb
Seeing Peter in a tie
The "hardware only" sign on Steven & Rod's table
The desert table (yum)

Got home in the wee hours, having enjoyed myself immensely.  Time to pack and prepare!

Nighty-night!